I've received one of the MGF gear change cables.  You can see it loosely hanging down in the picture.  I've fitted the radiator pipes now that the gear change mechanism is fitted and I know how much room I've got.  I'm glad I've not fitted the separate heater pipes as it'd been a very tight squeeze.  I soldered 28mm olives onto the ends of the main pipes as there weren't any flares in them.

I cut the main coolant pipes just before the fuel tank so that the tank can be removed at a later date without having to disconnect all the pluming.  The picture below shows the short cut section under the fuel tank.  I've added a bleed valve here so that I can tap off water/coolant without having to remove any hoses.  Note that this pipe section has now been replaced wholely in copper instead of aluminum pipe and copper joints as shown. 

This is the cut section under the fuel tank that can be removed.

The exhaust was fitted next.  No real problems here other than the heat shield of the silencer needs to be bent down to clear the cat.

I couldn't resist trying to start the engine, even though I still haven't got any instruments!  I turned it over for 20 seconds without any fuel or spark plugs to get a bit of oil circulating, then after that it started pretty much first time!!!!.......

You'll need a good connection to watch these videos of the engine running as they are quite big.

Video 1 (6.04 MB)

Video 2 (3.25 MB)

Video 3 (2.79 MB)

At the front I've made up the pipe work from 28mm copper pipe, after being inspired by Rich's Libra!  I soldered in the probe for the remote fan thermostat too.  The control is at the top of the picture next to the washer bottle.  Note the lack of wiring down the side of the car and across the top of the radiator.  All my wiring is COMPLETE!!  I spent a long time stripping back the GTM supplied wiring loom and metro loom taking out unused wires. 

This is an example of what the standard wiring and plumbing looks like!

The other side of the front bay, also with solid coolant pipes.

Wow, what a transformation!  It's really taking shape now the front clam shell is fitted.  I'm still waiting for the head lights!!!  I need to mesh the air intakes and fit the grill.  I tried all the lights I've got and everything seems to be working correctly.

Close up of the pin that allows the front to pivot and be removed. 

Around the top of the clam shells are these brackets that allow some initial fitment adjustment.  The top edges of the clam shells bolt into these brackets.

The rear shell in place.  The adjustment for the rear clam is in 'L' shape brackets either side of the boot.  I had to fit a piece of 12mm ply under the passenger side as there wasn't enough adjustment to get the correct height.  The trolley jack is to raise the exhaust up into its cut out in the rear shell as the engine steady bar hasn't been fitted yet. 

This is the rear pivot hinge.  Once the shell is closed they don't really take any weight as the shell is supported on the boot brackets.

I can now fit the engine steady bar.  Fitment of this is critical as it determines the height of the tail pipe exiting the rear shell.  I jacked it up just higher than I wanted it, fitted the steady bar then once I released the jack the exhaust dropped into the correct height.

This picture shows the 12mm ply that I had to fit to the boot support brackets.  I also fitted the rear stay cable to the shell.

I masked off the area around the rear quarters whilst I painted the black edge to hopefully get a neat finish.

I ended up stripping off this paint and re doing it.  I initially did it in window primer (the stuff windscreen companies use to paint the black band around windscreens) but I didn't like the result as you could see the brush marks.  I sanded it back and sprayed it in a matt black.